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When assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. But, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has made the family completely shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” states a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest place earning such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary triumph.